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There are many things you can do to improve your bowhunting accuracy. Utilizing drills designed to focus on a specific shooting element is one way to improve. For many, something as simple as adjusting the draw length on their hunting bow can lead to an instantaneous improvement in accuracy. Proper draw length is much discussed, and it is commonly stated that a bow set with a draw length that is a bit short is better than one that is set too long. This is quite true, but it is my point of view that a bow set with a draw length that is either too short or too long is simply not perfect. Furthermore, there is absolutely no reason to shoot a bow that is set with anything but the perfect draw length for you.

I see incorrect draw-length settings all the time at the local pro shop I frequent. Most of the time, I see shooters with bows set too long. It’s easy to spot. One thing to look for is a bowstring at full draw that extends much behind the tip of the shooter’s nose. In some extreme cases, I’ve observed bowstrings way behind the shooter’s nose and smashed into the side of the shooter’s face. With such a too-long draw length, the shooter’s peep sight is much too close to the shooter’s eye and blurs the view of the peep aperture housing. Without a crisp view of the internal edge of the string peep, it’s very difficult to visually frame the round pin guard within the peep sight view. In this scenario, the ideal circle-within-a-circle sighting system becomes very difficult to achieve.

You can also tell when a bow’s draw length is set too long for a shooter when all of the shooter’s weight is on his or her back foot when the bow is at full draw. You’ll know this because the shooter’s torso is leaning away from the target. In this too-long-draw-length scenario, upper-body shooting form is a mess and shot consistency erodes.

String slap on the forearm is yet another symptom that points to a draw-length setting that is too long. A shooter will often compensate for an overly long draw-length setting by gripping the bow handle like a hammer, locking the bow-arm elbow and standing with a square or closed shooting stance. Doing this positions the forearm in line with the bowstring path. The result is a stinging pain at the shot, loss of accuracy at the target and loss of confidence in one’s shooting ability.

There are a couple of ways to determine proper draw length. The Wingspan Method is perhaps the most widely accepted method and will definitely put you in the right ballpark.
The spread of an archer’s outstretched arms (wingspan) is measured, and the proper draw length is read from a chart based on that wingspan. Many compound bows come with cams equipped with adjustable draw-length modules that allow for a range of half-inch draw-length adjustments. However, some bows may require new cam modules to make adequate draw-length adjustments. After you’ve determined your wingspan draw length and have adjusted your bow accordingly, fine-tuning may then be required to further customize your bow for the perfect fit.

There are several steps involved in checking your draw length. First, be sure that your bowhand is correctly positioned. Your bowhand should be relatively relaxed and the knuckles of the hand should be at about a 45-degree angle to the bow riser (see “Get A Grip” March 2009 issue of this magazine). Next, draw the bow with your eyes closed, find your comfortable anchor point and settle in. Hold firm into the cam draw stops. Keep your eyes closed while at full draw in order to better focus on your anchor point and shooting form. While at full draw, have a buddy check a few things for you. Your bow arm should be relatively straight, with your elbow locked or just slightly unlocked. Your release-arm elbow should be pointed straight away from the target. You should be standing erect with your spine straight and your head comfortably situated in the middle of your shoulders. Your chin should be parallel to the ground. Equal weight should be placed on both feet, and your torso should appear straight. You should not be leaning toward or away from the target. Once proper shooting form is confirmed, determine the location of the bowstring in relation to the tip of the nose. Ideally, the bowstring should just barely touch the tip of the nose, not the other way around––no goosenecks. And the bowstring should also not extend much behind the corner of the mouth.

As with most rules, there are exceptions. Extremely short axle-to-axle length bows that produce an acute bowstring angle at full draw may not allow for bowstring-to-nosetip contact and still afford a comfortable anchor point. This is especially true for shooters with a long wingspan. The longer the draw length, the more acute the bowstring angle will be at full draw. For a long-draw-length shooter with a short axle-to-axle bow, it is appropriate for the bowstring to be located slightly in front of the nose when the bow is at full draw.

Fine-tuning draw length is made easy if your bow is equipped with adjustable draw stops. You can also fine-tune draw length by adding or removing a few twists in your bowstring. You can also shorten draw length by removing a two-piece bow grip and switching to a one-piece bow grip. Discussing proper draw length would not be complete without mentioning the D-loop. Adjusting the length of a D-loop does not equate to adjusting draw length since the distance from the bowstring nock point and bow riser will remain unchanged at full draw. Adjusting the length of a D-loop simply allows you to micro-adjust your anchor point location to accommodate your preference. A perfect draw length takes into account form and preference. A D-loop can help with this.

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