Bowhunt America

Article Topics

When you remove a field point from the end of an arrow and install a hunting point, you’ve instantly changed the aerodynamic properties of your projectile. I use the term “hunting point” because I make no distinction between fixed-blade broadheads and expandable broadheads when it comes to aerodynamics. Fixed-blades and expandables both have more surface area than field points. Although expandables generally have less exposed surface area than do fixed-blades, they are still aerodynamically different than field points.

I’ve experimented with many expandable broadheads, and in most cases those heads grouped slightly different from my field points. The difference is negligible with some expandables, but shockingly large with others.

With more exposed surface area, hunting points create more drag on the front of an arrow as compared to field points. It is important to understand that whereas the steering force of exposed cutting blades can be counteracted to a degree with larger or helical fletching, the effects of drag cannot be totally overcome when dealing with hunting points. Arrows tipped with hunting points simply fly slower than the same arrows tipped with field points, and the laws of physics dictate that slower arrows will have a different trajectory than faster arrows. Depending on your individual shooting equipment, you may not notice this until you move back to at least 30 yards. The point being that things change when you switch to broadheads.

Tuning arrows equipped with hunting points is best done methodically. And understanding the process is the first order of business. Before you begin, get a copy of Easton’s Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide for step-by-step troubleshooting methods to improve arrow accuracy. This publication should be in every bowhunter’s library. You can obtain a copy of the guide by contacting the good folks at Easton.

It is vital that you have a well-tuned bow before making the switch to hunting points. Arrows that are fishtailing or porpoising out of your bow will be nearly impossible to tune with hunting points, so be sure to paper tune before you begin. To be sure, shoot a few arrows through paper. The entire paper-tuning process will not be discussed in detail here. But in short, arrows equipped with field points should produce a clean three-point star-shaped tear through paper when shot at incremental distances of 5 feet to 5 yards from the paper. Achieving a perfect bullet hole through paper is the goal here. Elongated tears are corrected with adjustments made to the arrow rest or nock-point location until a bullet hole is achieved.

After weeks of practice you should be confident that your field-point arrows group well and hit the bull’s-eye consistently at various distances. Number your arrows with a magic marker and eliminate any flyers that group poorly. Next, remove the field points and mate hunting points to the arrows by spin testing each arrow/broadhead combination. Then begin shooting those arrows at just 10 or 15 yards. Shoot each arrow in a set one at a time or you risk damaging vanes or feathers. Measure how far off each arrow hits in relation to the bull’s-eye in the X and Y directions. If you are dead nuts, then back up to 20 yards and repeat. If not, adjustments to the arrow rest or nock point should be made.

I also suggest that you spin test each broadhead-equipped arrow. A hunting point that is not perfectly in-line with the arrow’s center axis makes for an aerodynamic mess. It is likened to bending the nose on a paper airplane––there is no telling where it will go when it is launched. Spin testing each arrow is a cinch. You can purchase an arrow spin tester for about $25, but you can also make one from a shoebox. You simply need something to cradle the arrow along two points about 8 inches apart. Spin each arrow by “gently” running the flat palm of your hand across the top of the arrow and observe the tip of the hunting point in reference to a fixed point. If the tip wobbles, remove the hunting point and install another one. Remember to spin test the other side of each arrow and check for proper nock alignment as well. A crooked nock can cause poor arrow flight almost as quickly as an improperly aligned hunting point.

Figure 20 found on page 11 of Easton’s Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide provides an excellent guide on the corrections to make should your arrow hit outside the bull’s-eye. For instance (for a right-handed release-aid shooter), if your hunting arrows hits low and to the right, you need to move your arrow rest up to the left (away from the bow’s riser). Up and down adjustments should always be made first. The goal is to get arrows equipped with hunting points hitting the bull’s-eye and grouping well. In the end you will likely have to make subtle adjustments to your bow sight. But don’t agonize over this. Simply lower your sight pins accordingly.

If after your best efforts, arrows equipped with hunting points still group horribly, double check the spine of your arrows specific to your draw length, bow poundage and cam design. An arrow with a too-weak spine can make broadhead tuning a real chore. You might also consider switching to longer fletching and/or installing fletching with a more helical configuration. You can also experiment with reducing or increasing bow draw weight to correct left and right misses or switching to a hunting point that weighs more or less. Subtle changes can make a big difference especially where large fixed- blade hunting points are concerned.

Enjoy this article? Share it!